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which bike?
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/.../ltd20_wcs.htm
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...champ08_sl.htm I like the FSA compact crank of the 2nd better. But the price is $300 more. And the ultegra crank ain't a slouch. Is there any difference in the rims? Anything else I am missing? Seems like the first one is a better deal at $1100. |
bump. come on you snobs, it will hurt you to look at a bike <$1500!
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I'm not familiar with Mercury and I would like the FSA compact crank. Motobecane is more familiar to me. Choose that one.
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Motobecane was bought by an outfit than makes frames out of Taiwan.
it's not the same motobecane of your youth. |
The frame geometry is not that novel nowadays, it's the componetry that matters most.
Many, many good frames exist in all price ranges. |
that's why I'm asking for which set of components is a better value.
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The first bike is a great bike for the price. Do you really need the compact crankset where you live? I would think that a 53/39 would be ideal for the flat lands of Texas.
For my cheapskate dollar, I would choose the $1,000 bike. Thats almost unheard of to get full ultegra components on a light frame for that price. |
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The serious riders would say in Texas you don't need a compact. But I have a racer friend who put on the compact for a West Texas race (that actually has slopes requiring triple) and says he has never taken it off since. |
I have a triple and use every gear available at various times due to the terrain where I live. But it can get a little irritating having to switch back and forth all the time between the middle and little chainring when in the hills.
I would rather have a compact crank, no question about it. If the hills you are riding are pretty moderate, not too steep, then the 50/36 might be okay. Anything steeper than a 8-10% grade might be a little much and would require a 50/34. You can always get a bigger rear cassette up to say a 27, but there tends to be some pretty big gaps in the gears between the 3rd and 6th cogs with 11 or 12 /27. |
Maybe I should get this. Titanium with dura-ace for 1k. Litespeed (older one).
http://dallas.craigslist.org/bik/353136661.html |
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I'd go for the Litespeed.
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The lightspeed. hands down.
Between the other 2, the cheaper one. Especially considering the riding you will probably be doing. |
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:) |
Is that a fair price on the litespeed or should I try to move him down if I try to buy it?
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You should be able to ferret that out in talking to him. Have a chat, test the waters (no pun intended) and see what happens. If this bike is too important for you to lose, then just buy it, what is saving 50 bucks worth? If it is importnat to get the best price, negotiate. IMO it looks like an OK price. |
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You live in Texas. When was the last time you climbed over 5%? Do you plan to race? Do you plan to have any 100+ mile weeks? Just cinsider the use. I don't ride expensive bike either. So i am not at all a snob about it. |
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I tell myself someday I will enter a crit. Who knows if I actually will. I do at least one century a year. |
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I believe I will get a great bike but will procure it for half the price the rest could obtain it for. What's wrong with having nice things? |
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What would make you think i was talking about you? |
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Arch buys wheels that are more than two of my housepayments put together.
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Just to make it clear: I am not the one leveling the accusations.
But imagine, all that money just to get dropped like a bad habbit by the young guys. That must be rough. |
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Showing up wins eighty percent of the battles. I buy value. I don't spend money. |
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